The first step in getting rid of GOPHERS is to correctly identify your pest. Please refer to our website to learn how to distinguish the difference between GOPHER and MOLE activity. Different sized gopher traps and techniques are used for trapping MOLES. In addition, there are two other burrowing animals that could be damaging your property: voles, and ground squirrels. Our traps only trap MOLES and GOPHERS.

Once you have determined that your pest is a GOPHER, you are ready to begin a rewarding experience improving your property. Trapping is the most effective method of GOPHER (and MOLE) control available, and the only method where the culprit is physically identified and removed. Our trap has been modified from a 100 year old trap used by professionals and homeowners since the early 1900’s.

Here are the photos for setting and placement of the trap. Then read the directions.

Essential tool: Gregg has invented an accessory tool called The GOPHER GONER DIGGER, that really takes the work out of trapping. There are two marks on the shaft of the digger. If you place the trap along side the DIGGER, starting at the spoon end, the first mark, shows you how far the trigger is under the ground. The second mark shows you how far the jaws of the trap are in the tunnel. The GOPHER GONER DIGGER makes it real easy to dig out a GOPHER tunnel so that the trap can be placed in the tunnel.

Choosing a fresh mound: Look for dark, moist soil to indicate recent GOPHER activity. It is a waste of time to place a trap in an old mound. Please refer to our website for photos and explanation and identification of fresh activity.

This Mound is Sooo Fresh the Gopher Hasn't Had Time to Plugged It!

Cleaning out the tunnel: A GOPHER mound is shaped like a crescent. Look for a “plug” about the size of a tennis ball inside the crescent. The “plug” is protecting the gopher. A gopher (and mole) plugs every tunnel to keep water and predators from entering and preventing the gopher’s scent from leaving the tunnel.

Remove the mound of dirt. Open it with the GOPHER GONER DIGGER. After the tunnel is open, probe to find the direction of the run.

Clean out all of the loose dirt inside the tunnel with the DIGGER. To do this, put the DIGGER in the hole, all the way to the handle, roll the DIGGER over and scoop out the all the loose dirt. Repeat this several times. Use the DIGGER to check that the tunnel is open for at least a foot (30 cm). If the tunnel has been packed with dirt for a foot or more, that tunnel has been abandoned. Fill the hole and try to find a better opportunity. If you are able to open the tunnel at least a foot (30cm), use the DIGGER to feel down both sides of the tunnel. If the tunnel “forks” before the trigger mark, try to find another fresh mound. If you simply can’t find another fresh mound, you will have to dig a hole big enough to set two traps in each tunnel, one trap in each direction. If the tunnel does not “fork,” only one trap will be needed. Once you have found an open tunnel that does not fork, you are ready to set a trap.

KEEP THE RIGHT HAND AWAY FROM THE LEVER ARM!

Setting the trap: Warning: Read directions carefully before trying to set the trap. Keep set traps away from children and anyone unfamiliar with the dangers of the trap. Wear gloves. The tension spring is powerful! The Jaw Lever Arm can snap your fingernail or thumb if the trap is held incorrectly.

Tip: The shaft, including the jaws and the trigger, of the GOPHER GONER TRAP needs to be in the tunnel all the way up to the sheet-metal part of the trap. It is better to set the wires after the trap is placed inside the tunnel. Our instructional DVD, Everything You Need to Get Rid of Gophers and Moles, demonstrates this way of setting traps. However, these photos and instructions do a fairly good job of teaching you how to set the trap “before” you place it inside the tunnel.

Bring the Lever Arm to the half-way position; careful to avoid the Lever Arm!

Step 1: With the Trip Wires #1 and #2 hanging free, hold the trap with your right hand above the Jaw Lever Arm, careful to avoid the Lever Arm from snapping your thumb or hand.

Place trap in tunnel half set. Hold Wire 1 with finger and Trigger Wire with thumb

Step 2: Hold the Jaw Lever Arm at the half position with the left thumb; hold Trip Wire #1 with your right finger so the wire won’t stick in the dirt when you place the trap, and hold the Trigger Wire with you thumb so the trigger doesn’t slide as you place the trap. This is tricky and takes practice, but it is a great way to place the trap in the tunnel.  Notice that the jaws of the trap are not completely opened. Now you are able to “angle” the jaws into the tunnel without enlarging the tunnel. The gopher should not be able to circumvent the jaws of the trap. If the tunnel is too big, the gopher will get around the jaws, hit the trigger and spring the trap.
(See: Back-fills: What do they mean? What do I do?

Step 3: Once the shaft of the trap fits all the way into the tunnel, push the trap to the left side of the tunnel. Since the moveable side of the jaw snaps to the right, if the gopher is forced to circumvent the jaw on the right and hits the trigger, the sharpened tine with spear him, or trap him between the jaw and the tunnel.

Step 4: The Trigger Slide Wire must move freely. THIS IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT! If the Trigger Slide Wire does not move freely, then the trigger is rubbing on the inside of the tunnel, and the GOPHER will not be able to trip the trap. You must remove the trap and clean out only the inside portion of the tunnel where the trigger is rubbing. Use the mark on the DIGGER closest to the spoon as a gauge to picture where the trigger is rubbing underground. Enlarge only that portion of the inside of the tunnel. Reset the trap and check that the Trip Slide Wire moves freely. You are done! It is a good idea to flag your traps to prevent loosing track of their location.

Catching those pesky GOPHERS: Early in the morning is the best time of day to set your traps. Check them often. Experts report that a GOPHER runs its main tunnel, checking its entire territory every 24-hours. Our GOPHER GONER system takes advantage of sunlight and air draft to inflict havoc on GOPHER habits. With a little practice, you will be able to control GOPHERS on your property.

In the summer, MOLES will be found where there is moisture. Insects, grubs and worms cannot exist in dry conditions. MOLES cannot store fat and do not store food, so as the conditions become dry, MOLES will move to lawns and emitters. Because MOLES have such a high metabolism, MOLES must cover a lot more territory than a GOPHER. The home range of a MOLE is said to be 20 times that of a GOPHER’s home range. This huge territory makes MOLES difficult to catch; however, fresh mounds tell us that the MOLE is in the area and increases our chance of a successful catch.

Our MOLE trapping system does not use poison or bait. We inflict havoc on the only defense a MOLE has. We open his tunnel system and allow light and air to penetrate his system. The MOLE senses the elements and comes to the opening to fix the problem. Trapping guarantees that the MOLE is physically removed from your property. Please read more about MOLES at our website. We have the best MOLE and GOPHER trapping system on the market.

Back-fill in a 4-way set

We have the best traps on the market for MOLE and GOPHER control. One reason (and there are many) our traps are so effective is that you can see all the activity from the surface. If your traps look like these photos, you have been back-filled! It happens to the professionals too.

A sprung or back-filled trap is like a fishing hook in the water without a worm. Back-fills look ugly and can cause disappointment with the novice, but back-fills are not as bad as a sprung trap that causes the MOLE or GOPHER to become “trap shy.”

What happened? There are at least three problems that can cause a back-fill;

1) The trigger was rubbing against the surface of the tunnel.

2) There is a small GOPHER in a large tunnel and the GOPHER circumvented the jaws and the trigger.

3) The tunnel forked before the end of the trap and the MOLE OR GOPHER circumvented the jaws and plugged the

trigger, preventing it from releasing.

What should you do?

1) Clean out the tunnel completely.

2) Chop the face of the tunnel with a shovel to give the trap a different

position in the tunnel.

3) Use the digging tool to locate any tunnels that may be forking. If

there are forking tunnels, you must carefully shovel back to the

forked tunnels and set 2-traps!

4) Check that the trigger on each trap is completely free when they

are set in the tunnels. If the trigger is not free, gently pull out the

trap and look for dirt on the trigger. Picture a clock on the

circular trigger. The dirt clinging on the trigger is usually from

12 to 3 or 9 to 12. Using your digging tool to measure where the

trigger sits in the tunnels, carefully, scrape just a small amount of

dirt in the tunnel where the trigger is rubbing. Carefully clean out

the tunnel once more. Reset the trap, checking for a free trigger.

Check your traps regularly. If there is no activity for 2-3 days, you may have to give the MOLE or GOPHER  some time to resurface. When it does, immediately set a trap in the fresh activity. Happy trapping!